Trim the mushrooms: cut the bottom off the shiitake stalks, pull the stalks off the cremini, and cut the oyster mushrooms from the main stalk. Brush off any visible dirt and keep all the trim in a container.

Wash the mushrooms in a container of water deep enough that they float with a three finger gap of water underneath. Give them a gentle mix and lift them out after about 30 seconds, and no more than one minute.

Drain the mushrooms on paper towel, then pat each one dry. Do not skip this step.

Preheat the oven to 220 degrees Celsius (430 degrees Fahrenheit). Run water over the trim and leave it to soak.

Slice the cremini into roughly 5 millimetre slices and the shiitake into roughly 8 millimetre slices, keeping the shiitake stalks intact. Pull the oyster mushrooms apart into roughly little finger sized pieces, removing any tough stalky bits.

Put the oyster mushrooms on a sheet tray, drizzle with a little extra virgin olive oil and mix well with your hands so every piece is coated. Do not add salt.

Roast the oyster mushrooms for 10 minutes, flip them, then roast for another 5 to 10 minutes until evenly golden brown and crispy.

Put the trim, pulled or cut into smaller pieces (remove the very bottoms of the stalks if they are really dirty), into a 1.5 litre saucepan with 1 litre of vegetable stock. Warm it on a low heat so the trim infuses into the stock.

Heat about 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a wide pan (about 23 centimetres / 9 inches) on a high heat until it shimmers. Add the cremini and leave them for 2 minutes without stirring. Stir gently and cook for another 1 to 2 minutes until golden in parts. Do not add salt. Move them to a plate.

Add a little more oil if needed and cook the shiitake for about 1 minute, stir gently, then cook for another minute. Move them to the same plate. Leave the pan to cool, keeping the caramelised fond in it.

Pour a little of the warm stock onto the roasted oyster mushroom tray and scrape up all the caramelised bits with a wooden spoon or silicone spatula, not metal. Pour the liquid back into the stock and top the stock up to the 1 litre mark.

Put the pan you cooked the mushrooms in back on a low heat. Cook the finely chopped shallot with a pinch of salt and a drizzle of olive oil for about 1 minute until soft and slightly translucent, then add the finely diced celery.

Add the rice and toast it gently for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the small glass of dry white wine and cook away about 80 per cent of the liquid, stirring.

Add the stock in four stages of roughly 250 ml (1 cup), stirring gently every couple of minutes so you do not break the grains, and keep it at a gentle simmer.

Put the shiitake on a sheet tray in the oven to warm through, not cook. After three additions of stock, add the remaining stock with the cremini and oyster mushrooms, stir gently and simmer for about 2 minutes, until each grain has just a small amount of pure white in the very centre.

Turn the heat off, put a lid on the pan and leave the risotto to rest for 10 minutes.

Stir in about 50 ml of hot water or leftover stock, then the finely grated parmesan. Taste and season with salt if needed, then serve in a wide bowl or on a flat plate with the warmed shiitake on top.